Regenerative vs. organic cotton

Plus what you should and shouldn't communicate about regeneration

Welcome to The Crisps – your weekly newsletter on anti-greenwashing and honest fashion communication. In this issue, we take a closer look at regenerative fashion –especially regenerative cotton – and share the dos and don’ts of communicating regeneration as a brand. Become a pro subscriber to read the entire issue. Glad you’re here!

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We’ve scratched the surface of regenerative fashion last week. But as you know that’s not enough for us. So as every other week, it’s time to dig a little deeper.

Before we get into more details about regenerative cotton and communication do’s and don’ts, we wanted to share two quotes from the discussion we had around the topic on Instagram and LinkedIn. Both Marian von Rappard (Dawn Denim) and Simon Ferrigno (independent researcher & cotton expert) raised important aspects that we haven’t gotten to in detail yet:

Certification might not be the best way to ensure a regenerative system. The reason for that is directly linked to another aspect they both raised: Regeneration should be looked at on a (hyper-)local level. Whoever has tried growing vegetables in their own garden knows where Marian and Simon are coming from. While tomatoes might grow well in that one spot where the soil quality, nutrients, sunlight, and wind situation is just right, they might not even sprout in another spot that’s just a few meters away. Because the conditions are totally different.

And that holds true whether you’re growing food crops or commodity crops like cotton. So we totally agree that – especially with regeneration – you have to look at the local level. On that note, let’s dive into regenerative cotton (and the differences to organic cotton)!

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Regenerative cotton vs. organic cotton

Organic cotton and regenerative cotton are two distinct approaches to sustainable cotton farming, each with its own set of principles and practices. While both aim to reduce the environmental impact of cotton cultivation, they differ in their overarching goals and methods. Here are the key differences between organic cotton and regenerative cotton:

Certification and Standards:

🔸 Organic cotton is grown following strict organic farming & cultivation standards. These standards prohibit the use of synthetic pesticides, genetically modified organisms (GMOs), and synthetic fertilizers. Instead, organic cotton farming relies on natural pest control methods, crop rotation, and organic soil amendments. In the U.S., the use of the term "organic" is strictly regulated by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) under the National Organic Program (NOP). In most other countries it is not. One might label a cotton product “organic” without being certified.

🔹 Regenerative cotton is a different holistic and ecosystem-centered approach. It focuses on improving soil health, biodiversity, and carbon sequestration. Unlike organic cotton, regenerative cotton farming does not have a standardized certification system (yet). Instead, it covers a range of farming practices that prioritize regeneration and sustainability, with a strong emphasis on improving the overall ecosystem at a local level.

Soil Health:

🔸 Organic cotton farming promotes soil health by avoiding synthetic chemicals and promoting organic matter in the soil. This approach aims to minimize soil erosion and maintain soil fertility through composting, cover cropping, and reduced soil disturbance.

🔹 Regenerative cotton places a greater emphasis on soil health and regeneration. It often incorporates practices such as no-till farming, cover cropping, and rotational grazing. The goal is to build resilient, fertile soils that can sequester carbon, improve water retention, and support diverse plant and microbial life.

Biodiversity:

🔸 Organic cotton farming encourages biodiversity by avoiding synthetic pesticides and promoting natural pest management. It often includes hedgerows, buffer zones, and other features to enhance wildlife habitat.

🔹 Regenerative cotton takes a more comprehensive approach to biodiversity, aiming to restore and protect entire ecosystems. This can include planting native species, creating wildlife corridors, and supporting the health of pollinators and other wildlife in and around cotton fields.

Carbon Sequestration:

🔸 While organic cotton farming can sequester some carbon through improved soil health and organic matter, it does not have a specific focus on carbon sequestration as regenerative cotton does.