Are your products "circular"?
Why this headline is greenwashing, a lexicon on circularity terminology – from "closed-loop systems" to "zero-waste". Plus, examples of circularity communication to learn from.
Welcome to another edition of our anti-greenwashing newsletter The Crisps where we dive into the complexity of the fashion industry and expose the truth behind “sustainability” claims. Don’t miss out on our future analysis and briefs.
“Circularity is an exciting opportunity, where it is genuine – but it has been hijacked”, said the environmental writer and expert Lucy Siegle once.1 And we agree! In an era where environmental concerns are pressing, the fashion industry bets on "circularity" as a savior. But when we take a closer look, we find many forms of greenwashing, half-truths, and empty promises.
The hype began after the Ellen MacArthur Foundation started advocating for a circular economy in 2015 and the topic received another nudge after ThredUp published its first Resale Market Report in 2017.2 Circularity became a business case. Companies started embracing resale models because of promising financial gains and new market opportunities. Ever since, circularity has become the go-to buzzword in sustainability circles — for good reason. Making well-designed products that create less waste and last longer symbolizes the first step for responsible business. Because what all of us can agree on for sure is one fact: The current “take-make-discard” model is unsustainable if we are to live within planetary boundaries.
But it's time to question whether companies are truly walking the talk. Because we can say so much already: Circularity is not a universal solution. Going circular requires systemic change. As circularity is a system, not a product.
So in this edition, we explore what circularity means in fashion, give you an A-Z in circular terminology, and share the examples we’re analyzing in our pro-issue next week.
“Circularity” in fashion
The concept of circularity suggests an idyllic vision: an industry in balance with nature, a world where garments are designed to be infinitely recyclable (technical cycle) or compostable (biological cycle), where waste becomes a thing of the past, and where fashion's environmental footprint is a mere shadow of its former self.
A circular approach is rooted in lifecycle thinking – and acting. It’s about considering the lifetime of a product and how it might (or might not) become waste in the future. Circularity in fashion means developing a system in which clothing will be reused, repaired, or recycled at the end of its lifetime. And here lies the first communication trap. Because if the system is truly circular, there basically is no end-of-life.
But more than that, circularity is about diminishing the use of planet-wrecking raw materials, decoupling their exploitation from growth and social injustices and radically changing business models. However, circularity is not the one and only solution to our sustainability challenges. And should not be communicated as such. Companies should not only transition to developing more “sustainable” product portfolios (a huge feat in itself).
The biggest problem with circularity is that forcing circular principles into a system designed for the linear economy will never work. And this is where greenwashing starts and never ends in the discourse on circularity. We call these “rebound effects”.
Circularity lexicon
Step into the world of circular fashion, and you'll be bombarded with an array of buzzwords – from "closed-loop" to "zero-waste", "recycled" to "durable", all promising a greener, kinder future for the industry. Let’s look into the terminology and what’s tricky about it.
1. "Circular" Fashion
"Circular" fashion has gained immense popularity in the sustainable fashion movement, promising a closed-loop system where clothes are endlessly reused, and waste is eradicated. However, in practice, numerous brands simply use the "circular" label without tackling the underlying systemic problems within the industry. Achieving genuine circularity goes beyond superficial recycling initiatives; it necessitates a comprehensive transformation of production practices and supply chains. And, it never is a single product. Circularity is a system.
2. "Zero-Waste" and "Wasteless"
"Zero-waste" and "wasteless” fashion claim to leave no environmental footprint behind, but these claims often fall short of reality. From excessive packaging to unsold inventory destined for landfills, the fashion industry's waste problems run deep. Absolute wastelessness is an illusion we’ll never achieve in our system. What we can achieve though is full transparency and genuine efforts to minimize waste. So, stay humble.
3. "Recycled" and "Recyclable"
While "recycled" materials are undoubtedly a step in the right direction, they can become a smokescreen for brands to divert attention from other unsustainable practices. "Recyclable" products may sound promising, but only if recycling facilities and infrastructure exist to support the journey (that means: practically recyclable, not only technically recyclable). Without comprehensive recycling systems in place, these claims are mere greenwashing.
4. "Durable" Fashion
Clothing labeled as "durable" may seem appealing due to its long-lasting and resilient properties, but it's essential to consider the potential consequences. While these long-lasting garments can help us consume less and reduce waste, they unintentionally support fashion's reliance on fossil fuels (we think it`s really funny that the biggest manufacturer of virgin and recycled polyester fibers is India’s Bad Boy Company “Reliance Industries Limited”). True durability lies in natural materials, in timeless designs, and mindfully caring for and curating our wardrobe.
5. "Closed-Loop" Systems
The allure of "closed-loop" fashion systems promises a seamless and eco-friendly process. However, the reality is far from perfect. Brands may tout recycling initiatives while ignoring the environmental impact of raw material extraction or energy-intensive manufacturing processes. It's time to evaluate the complete lifecycle of fashion products to determine if these loops are truly closed and minimized.
Our crisp analysis
Long time, no analysis! So finally, we’ve got some examples to dissect together with you. This week we’re showing you the examples, next week we’re giving you the solutions and explanations. In the meantime, you can discuss in the comments what you think about this ad by Primark.
Example No. 1: Circular products by Primark
Scope: In this ad, Primark promises that its products will be recyclable by design until 2027. Why? “Making our clothes circular. For the world to keep turning.”
Image from a 2021 article by Drapers
Example No. 2: Adidas
Scope: The sportswear giant Adidas states on its website that they are implementing “more sustainable materials and circular services” to “expand our circular service offering”.
Screenshot from adidas corporate website
Example No. 3: M&S and again and again H&M among others
Scope: M&S and H&M indicate on their website that the customer can return unused products to the brand in-store, motivating their customers to “close the loop”.
Image from a recent article by Italy24
In our pro issue next week, we will share our analysis with you, get into problematic narratives around circularity, and sum up the most important aspects of the new report “Take-back Trickery” by the campaigning organization Changing Markets Foundation.
All the best,
Tanita & Lavinia
Carter-Morley, J. (2021) for The Guardian. ‘Circular’ fashion: greenwashing myth, or attainable goal? https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2021/sep/20/circular-fashion-greenwashing-myth-or-attainable-goal (accessed online 01.08.2023)
Bae, J. W. (2021). thredUp, the one billion two hundred fifty million dollar value treasure box has come, thredUp, 2021 Resale Report. The JoongAng Economy, 22.