From Farm to Fashion: A Leather Crash Course

Tackling myths about leather as a byproduct, vegetable tanning and more

Welcome to another issue of The Crisps – your newsletter on anti-greenwashing and honest fashion communication. You can support us by subscribing to a free or pro subscription, liking, sharing, or commenting on our posts.

---

For many the use of traditional leather is not just a “sustainability” topic but a general ethical one. While some fashion brands decide against the use of traditional leather such as Ganni, who phased out virgin leather in 2023, the animal-derived material remains popular in fashion and accessories.

There have been endless debates about traditional vs. vegan leather and which of the materials is more “sustainable”. While this is an issue about leather, we’re not getting into this part of the discussion. Instead, we’re focusing on the communication about traditional leather, vegetable tanning and myths like “leather is a byproduct of the meat industry”. We also give you an overview of the environmental, social and animal-welfare related issues of leather and an in-depth look at the Leather Working Group certification.

What to expect in today’s pro section:

• 3 claims about leather and how to not fall into the greenwashing trap.

• Lavinias insights of her audits in leather tanneries across the globe.

• And a looooong list of credible sources you should use for communication or can dive into if if you want to know more.

All the best,

Tanita & Lavinia

---

Your Crash Course on Leather

If you’re familiar with the basic environmental, social and animal-welfare related issues around leather, you can skip this section and scroll down to our deep dive! If not, let’s get into the basics.

First up, we look at the production process:

Environmental issues related to leather production

Leather production creates a list of environmental issues. Here are four you should definitely know about.¹

🔸 Deforestation and land use: The leather industry contributes to deforestation, especially in regions like the Amazon rainforest. Cattle farming, which supplies hides for leather, often leads to the destruction of forests to create grazing land. In Brazil, a major exporter of both beef and leather has been directly linked to Amazon deforestation in the past.

🔸 Water pollution: Turning animal hides into leather requires large amounts of water and chemicals. Traditional chrome tanning, which accounts for about 90% of leather production, involves toxic chemicals like chromium salts. These substances can contaminate water sources if not properly managed which can cause long-term environmental damage and health risks for nearby communities.

🔸 Carbon emissions: Leather production contributes to greenhouse gas emissions throughout its lifecycle. Livestock farming, especially cattle, is a major source of methane—a potent greenhouse gas. The energy-intensive tanning process also consumes significant fossil fuels, adding to leather’s carbon footprint.

🔸 Waste: The leather industry generates considerable solid waste, including off-cuts and unused parts of hides, which often end up in landfills or incineration. Additionally, chemical waste from tanning is a significant issue, especially in countries with lax environmental regulations.

Social and labor-related issues

Leather production can also raise social and labor concerns, especially in regions where regulation is weak.²

🔹 Worker health and safety: Workers in tanneries, especially those in the Global South, are often exposed to hazardous chemicals without proper protective equipment. Exposed to chromium and other toxic substances can cause serious health problems such as skin diseases, respiratory issues, and even cancer.

🔹 Low wages and exploitation: Many leather workers, especially in emerging economies, are underpaid and work long hours in unsafe environments. The informal nature of some leather production operations makes it difficult to regulate labor practices, contributing to worker exploitation.

Animal welfare concerns

Leather’s reliance on animal hides means that it is inherently tied to animal welfare issues.³

🔸 Treatment of livestock: The leather industry sources hides from cattle, goats, sheep, pigs, and exotic animals like crocodiles and snakes. The conditions in which these animals are raised can vary significantly. In some cases, animals are kept in cramped and inhumane conditions before being slaughtered. Additionally, animals bred specifically for exotic leather often suffer from cruel practices to ensure the quality of their hides.

🔸 Slaughter practices: While some argue that leather is a byproduct of the meat industry, animals are still cruelly slaughtered. In countries without strict regulations, animals can be mistreated during transport and slaughter. (We will dive deeper into the byproduct narrative further down.)

---

You’ve heard this claim before. And it’s citied again and again by brands and the leather industry – maybe also to justify the use of leather as its “only using what would otherwise go to waste”. But this narrative is is growth-centered and the reality is more complex.

Leather is a significant economic driver. The global leather market was valued at over $240 billion in recent years.⁴ For many slaughterhouses, selling hides for leather production represents a substantial revenue stream that can influence the economics of meat production.

Without question the meat and leather industries are deeply interconnected, with the profitability of one often bolstering the other. This relationship complicates the claim that leather is simply a byproduct, as its production can actively shape the meat industry.

How does the leather production impact the meat industry?

In some regions, the demand for leather, particularly for high-end or exotic products, can drive specific farming practices. For instance, certain breeds of cattle or other animals might be raised primarily for their hides rather than their meat.⁵

The global market dynamics also play a role in how leather is positioned within the meat industry. In countries where leather fetches high prices, the value of hides can significantly impact farming practices, encouraging higher production rates or the rearing of specific breeds for their leather quality.⁶

---

In our next issue

One of the buzzwords of the hour is biodegradable synthetics. In our next issue, we tackle this topic in more detail, diving into the nitty gritty and technical details. We look at biodegradability testing, misleading claims and the differences between biodegradable vs. bio-based synthetics. And we’re very lucky to have fantastic support in this issue by Julia Eckert who is an environmental engineer with a focus on recycling technologies. As always, let us know in the poll how familiar you are with the topic already.

---

First up, a quick definition: Vegetable tanning uses tannins⁷ derived from plant materials like oak bark, chestnut wood, and mimosa. These tannins bind to the collagen in animal hides, stabilizing them into leather. The process is often framed as “natural” and “environmentally friendly”.

But vegetable tanned leather is not necessarily free of synthethic and/or harmful chemicals as some might make it sound like. While the process avoids the heavy metals of chrome tanning, vegetable tanning can still involve significant (synthetic) chemicals which contribute to pollution if they are not managed properly.⁸ Here’s a list of the most commonly used chemicals:

1. Lime and sodium sulfide: These chemicals are used to swell the hides, making it easier to remove hair and fat. The spent lime and sulfide solutions, if not properly treated, can lead to toxic effluents. Sodium sulfide is particularly concerning due to its potential to release hydrogen sulfide gas, a highly toxic and corrosive substance.

2. Acid treatments: Formic acid and sulfuric acid are often used to adjust the pH of hides during the tanning process. These acids, if not neutralized and managed, can lead to acidic effluents that harm aquatic life and soil quality.

3. Biocides: Hides can be treated with biocides to prevent mold and bacterial growth during the long tanning process. These biocides can be toxic and persist in the environment, where they impact the ecosystems and communities.

Plus, there are more environmental issues that can have a significant impact if they are not managed properly.

🔸 Water consumption and pollution: Vegetable tanning also requires large amounts of water to process the hides over weeks or even months. This process can result in the release of organic and inorganic pollutants into local waterways, especially if waste water treatment is not implemented.

🔸 Sludge generation: The byproducts of vegetable tanning include sludge that contains not only organic waste but also the residues of the chemicals used in the process. Disposing of this waste responsibly is crucial, but often costly which leads to potential environmental hazards if not properly managed.

🔸 Deforestation: The tannins used in vegetable tanning are sometimes sourced from trees like chestnut and quebracho. If these materials are not “sustainably” harvested, there is a risk of contributing to deforestation, particularly in regions where the trees are critical to local ecosystems.

---

The Leather Working Group is an industry-led initiative that aims to promote responsible practices in the leather supply chain. It was established in 2005 by a coalition of brands, suppliers, and manufacturers with the goal of improving environmental performance within the leather industry.

LWG certification comes in three levels: Gold, Silver, and Bronze. These levels are awarded based on a tannery’s performance across various environmental criteria, including water use, energy consumption, waste management, and chemical handling. But what does LWG Certification actually cover? Here are the most important aspects and what’s missing:

Environmental Management Systems

The LWG certification evaluates a tannery’s Environmental Management System (EMS), which includes how it manages resources like water and energy. However, LWG does not set absolute environmental benchmarks; instead, it rates tanneries relative to industry norms. So even the most highly rated tanneries might still have significant environmental impacts. This relative scoring system means that LWG certification should be viewed as a step towards sustainability, not an endpoint.

Chemical Management

LWG assesses how tanneries handle chemicals, but this doesn't necessarily mean the elimination of harmful substances. The focus is often on proper storage, usage, and disposal rather than reducing the overall chemical footprint. Some of the most harmful chemicals, like Chromium VI which appears from conversion from Chromium III (if it occurs), may still be present, though the LWG guidelines encourage tanneries to prevent its formation.

Energy and Water Use

Tanners are scored on their efficiency in using water and energy, but LWG does not mandate the use of renewable energy or specific water recycling targets. This can result in tanneries receiving high ratings even if they rely heavily on non-renewable resources or contribute to water scarcity.

What the certification is criticized for

1. One of the major criticisms of LWG certification is that it focuses almost exclusively on environmental factors, with minimal attention to labor practices and human rights. A tannery could achieve Gold status while employing workers in poor conditions, with low wages, or without adequate health and safety measures.

2. The LWG certification process does not address the ethical concerns related to the sourcing of hides, such as animal welfare. It doesn't scrutinize the conditions under which the animals were raised or slaughtered.⁹

3. LWG has certainly led to improvements in some areas of the leather industry, particularly in encouraging better environmental management practices. However, critics argue that the certification promotes incremental improvements rather than driving the systemic changes needed to make the leather industry truly sustainable.

4. Another key critique with LWG certification is the lack of transparency. Detailed audit reports are not made public, making it difficult for consumers and independent watchdogs to verify the claims made by certified brands. This opacity raises questions about the accountability and effectiveness of the certification process.

---

Welcome to our pro section!

In this issue’s pro section you will find the following:

• We tackle three claims and what brands have to keep in mind to avoid greenwashing (We only use vegetable-tanned leather”, “100% transparent leather”, “All of our leather is chrome-free”)

• Lavinia’s audit experiences visiting tanneries across the globe

• Which credible sources to read if you want to dive deeper

Here are some phrases that are commonly used by brands. Is it greenwashing? Is it not? Which information would have to be provided along the claim?

1. “We only use vegetable-tanned leather”

2. “100% traceable leather”

3. “All of our leather is chrome-free”

Let’s look at it in more detail.

1. “We only use vegetable-tanned leather”

Brands often use "vegetable-tanned" as a key selling point, but without clear disclosure about the entire process, this can be misleading. The presence of natural tannins does not negate the use of other chemicals that may be harmful to the environment.

So if you’re working for a brand and you want to talk about vegetable-tanned leather, make sure to include the following: