How cultural appropriation and greenwashing intersect
Plus what collaborations really entail
Welcome to another issue of The Crisps, your weekly brief on anti-greenwashing and honest fashion communication. In this issue, we look at cultural appropriation and how it intersects with greenwashing. Plus, we will analyze examples in our pro-issue next week.
It’s far from new, but it has gained more attention in recent years: cultural appropriation. In the context of fashion, the term applies when a brand uses an element of one culture out of its cultural context to fuel its profit. It is an especially sensitive issue when a brand from a dominant culture is taking a cultural element from a minority culture out of context, and neither giving credit to nor involving people of that culture in the profit.1
Cultural appropriation is in fact a form of colonialism.
Though it’s prominent in fashion, cultural appropriation also happens in other areas like dance, language, and music. We will focus on fashion here–of course.
Cultural Appropriation in Fashion
Fashion has a long history of appropriating styles and motifs from cultures, often without giving credit. This goes beyond just drawing inspiration. It is directed at designers and brands adopting crafts or techniques from (minority) groups and presenting them as their own. Or how Chinese-American designer Kim Shui described it in a Vogue feature: “Turning something into a costume without understanding or respecting its cultural significance”.2
So when we speak about cultural appropriation it is important to understand that it doesn’t mean respectful collaborations are not wanted. They are–but it goes beyond using cultural elements just because they might look nice or you might make money.
What is a respectful collaboration?
Some may think using cultural elements is promoting and appreciating the culture it originates from. But it depends on HOW you do it. Many people affected by cultural appropriation (we will look at some examples in our pro issue next week) have publicly spoken out against it.
Respectful collaborations:
share profits
involve people from the culture within the design and production process
give credit to the people (if they want to be credited)
‘Collaborations’ where ideas, patterns, techniques and designs are taken from a (minority) culture and used in another context without these aspects are not respectful collaborations.
How does cultural appropriation and greenwashing intersect?
False authenticity: Both cultural appropriation and greenwashing in fashion can be seen as attempts by brands to project authenticity. By borrowing from cultures or claiming eco-friendly credentials, brands aim to attract a consumer base that values originality and sustainability.
Exploitation for profit: Both practices exploit narratives: cultural appropriation exploits cultural narratives, while greenwashing exploits the sustainability narrative. The aim is profit, often without a genuine commitment to cultural appreciation or environmentalism.
Surface-level commitments: In the same way that some brands might use a cultural motif without understanding its depth or significance, brands might also speak about eco-friendly practices without significant sustainable actions behind the scenes.
Fast fashion: Aiming to produce trends quickly, fast fashion brands may appropriate designs from diverse cultures without due diligence. This same industry model often compromises environmental sustainability, leading to both cultural appropriation and greenwashing in the name of rapid production and profit.
To understand the overlap better, we’ve put together some concrete examples of how cultural appropriation and greenwashing might intersect:
🔹 Artisanal narratives
Example: A brand markets a collection as "artisanal" or "inspired by indigenous craftsmanship," suggesting both cultural appreciation and sustainable, handcrafted production.
Reality: The brand mass-produces these items in factories with unsustainable practices and doesn't compensate or acknowledge the communities they took inspiration from.
🔹 Eco-friendly traditional designs
Example: A fashion brand releases a line of clothing using traditional designs from a certain culture, marketing them as "eco-friendly" because they use organic materials.
Reality: While the materials might be organic, the production process could be environmentally harmful. Simultaneously, the brand does not understand or respect the cultural significance of the designs they use.
🔹 Cultural storytelling with sustainable materials
Example: A brand launches a line of accessories telling the "story" of a particular indigenous or minority group, claiming that the items are made with sustainable materials and techniques that are traditional to that culture.
Reality: The brand doesn't consult with members of the culture in question and overgeneralizes or misrepresents the "story." Furthermore, while materials might be ecologically optimized, the production process might not honor traditional methods or might exploit local workers.
🔹 Revival of traditional eco-friendly techniques
Example: A brand claims to revive a dyeing, eco-friendly traditional technique from a particular culture, positioning itself as both a savior of the environment and a preserver of cultural heritage.
Reality: The brand uses the technique superficially without a genuine commitment to its preservation or without ensuring that the communities who own the technique benefit from its use.
🔹 Eco-festivals with cultural themes
Example: A brand sponsors or creates a festival with eco-friendly and cultural appreciation themes, celebrating both sustainability and diverse cultures.
Reality: The festival might have wasteful practices, or the cultural elements might be shallow representations or mockeries of real traditions, thereby appropriating rather than appreciating.
In our pro issue next week, we will analyze cultural appropriation examples by Sézane, Gucci, Zara, and more, giving you tips on how to communicate cultural inspiration and collaboration (which will only be possible when the cultural appropriation hasn’t already started at the design and production stage).
All the best,
Tanita & Lavinia
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Disclaimer: The content and opinions presented in The Crisps newsletter are for informational purposes only and do not constitute legal, ethical, or professional advice. The Crisps does not endorse any specific brands or products mentioned in its content.
Young, James O. (1 February 2010). Cultural Appropriation and the Arts. John Wiley & Sons. p. 59. ISBN 978-1-4443-3271-1.
Vogue (2023). Is Fashion Finally Turning the Page on Cultural Appropriation?
https://www.vogue.com/article/cultural-appropriation-appreciation-fashion-september-2023 (accessed online 07.10.2023)