Stop blaming the Global South
How to talk about injustices without Global South shaming
Welcome to The Crisps–your weekly newsletter on anti-greenwashing and honest fashion communication. With the anniversary of the Rana Plaza collapse and Fashion Revolution Week coming up soon, we’ve dedicated this issue to discussing social and environmental issues without shaming the Global South. It happens all too often –even though many mean well. Let’s get you prepared!
Educating consumers about social and environmental justice issues is important – and companies can play an essential role in driving the conversation. So don’t get us wrong when we say this: Depending on HOW it’s done, your communication can do more harm than good. Reinforcing stereotypes and slipping into Global South shaming happens all too quickly.
There’s a fine line between educating people about social justice issues and shaming the Global South.
With the 11th anniversary of the Rana Plaza tragedy and therefore also the Fashion Revolution week coming up in a few weeks, some of you might prepare communication around social justice issues that people in fashion supply chains are still facing to this day. Others might plan to donate the sales of a day/week to an organization or plan to promote “fair fashion” as a “better” alternative.
Every year, we see problematic content during this time. That’s why we’ve dedicated this entire issue to communicating social justice issues without (hopefully) slipping into Global South shaming. We know that a lot of brands don’t intend for it to happen and mean well! So let’s get you prepared to talk about these issues in a culturally sensitive way.
For transparency: We’re both members of Fashion Revolution Germany e.V.
If you do this, you might shame people in the Global South (even if you mean well)
When we see brands or the media slipping into Global South shaming, it oftentimes comes down to one mistake: Context is missing. Using examples to represent a broader issue is a common practice and helps us understand the world better. But if it’s not done well and context is missing, it poses the risk of painting the wrong picture, deflecting attention from the systemic issues within the fashion industry and the responsibilities of mostly Western brands and consumers.
We’ve collected some images and scenarios and will explain what not do to and how to do it better!
We will look at:
Generic Global South shaming
Workers in distress without consent
Polluted rivers
Child labour
Garment waste dump
Factory fire or factory collapse
Global South shaming
In the context of fashion communication, Global South shaming refers to the practice of unfairly denigrating or stigmatizing manufacturing practices and locations in countries, particularly in the Global South, while simultaneously promoting production in Western nations as inherently superior. This tactic often involves exploiting stereotypes and misconceptions about working conditions and labor standards in production countries.1 This former ad by the start-up Orilabo Project is an example of that. It shames Bangladesh as a production country and positions “Made in Portugal” as the “fair” alternative.
(Note from Lavinia: I confronted them about the campaign and offered my help but was insulted instead. Two weeks later they removed the campaign.)
Workers in distress without consent
This image of a tired or distressed garment worker in a factory is widely used by brands to highlight the harsh working conditions in the textile industry. However, the same brands that use this kind of image don’t always actively address these issues. They might even be complicit in maintaining exploitative labor practices. Also, using photos of factory workers without consent violates their privacy rights and objectifies them, reinforcing power imbalances within the fashion industry.
Polluted rivers
Another image that is widely used to represent the environmental (and social) issues of the textile industry shows a polluted river near a textile factory in a producing country. Oftentimes the accompanying text highlights environmental degradation and reads something like “wastewater is not efficiently treated”. While the image raises awareness about pollution, it overlooks the role of Western consumer demand and the corporate practices driving unsustainable production methods.
Child labour
Another common photo used in communication is an image of a child or very young worker in a textile factory. It evokes sympathy and outrage among Western consumers. However, without giving proper context the image may oversimplify the complex socio-economic factors that lead to child labor. It oftentimes fails to address the systemic issues perpetuated by global supply chains and corporations.
Garment waste dumps
Oftentimes used in the context of the Atacama desert in Chile, images of mountains of discarded garments in a landfill are used to highlight the environmental impact of fast fashion. While the image shows the need for sustainable consumption habits, it also reinforces stereotypes of the Global South as a dumping ground for Western excess. Plus, the story might be framed as such that “the Global South does not have efficient waste management.” However, the political and economic context is needed to understand which mechanisms lead to textiles being dumped in nature and the handling of them.
Factory fire or factory collapse
Especially on the Rana Plaza anniversary the image of the collapsed factory is circulating through communication channels. Whether it’s an image of a collapsed building or fire, it illustrates the dangers faced by workers in unsafe working conditions. While such images call for improved safety standards, they usually don’t provide enough context and information about the role fashion brands have when they outsource production to countries without implementing proper due diligence. (Just a quick reminder that at least 10 Western fashion brands were producing within the Rana Plaza building)2
To combat this, brands need to take a more transparent and responsible approach to communicate #RanaPlazaRemembranceDay, #FashionRevolutionWeek, and the campaigns around it.
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So how can we talk about injustices without shaming the Global South?
Before we get into topic-related actionable tips, let’s talk about a content form that might help you develop narratives that give enough context. How about you create (social and environmental justice content) like a journalistic mini-feature? Here’s why:
🔹 Features usually start with an example/description or person that represents a bigger issue/challenge/development. Narrowing down in the beginning helps to grasp the topic – especially if it’s a complex one.
🔹 Features give context and look at the topic from different angles, providing a somewhat “holistic” understanding. That’s important because when we talk about social or environmental justice issues, we never speak of individual problems. We speak about systemic issues.
🔹 Features are based on facts and studies but also include the voices of people who should be heard on the topic.
Now let’s get into some actionable tips about the use of images, culturally sensitive language and contribution to local causes.
Use of Images and Quotes
Prioritize the well-being of workers in the Global South. Avoid creating unnecessary stress by requesting materials (like photos from the factory floor or communities) shortly before campaigns.
Obtain consent from every worker, and respect personal data as well as image protection laws.
Provide clear information about how their images or voices will be used and obtain explicit permission for each use.
Ensure translations accurately convey workers' thoughts and feelings.
Incorporate feedback from workers and improve your use of images and quotes if requested.
Compensate fairly for everything you ask for.
Culturally Sensitive Language
Use language that respects the narratives and perspectives of those in the Global South. (Do you have a guideline on "Culturally sensitive language"?)
Be cautious of perpetuating stereotypes or inadvertently contributing to Global South shaming. Instead of portraying workers in the Global South as passive victims, highlight their agency and resilience. For instance, rather than depicting them solely as impoverished laborers, showcase their skills, creativity, and contributions to the fashion industry.
Voices in the Global South are diverse. Acknowledge that and avoid oversimplification. Also, engage with stakeholders from the Global South to ensure that their voices are heard and respected in your communication efforts.
Recognize the agency and resilience of workers in the face of challenges.
When describing the working conditions in garment factories, acknowledge the complexities and nuances of the situation.
Avoid simplistic narratives that fail to capture the multifaceted realities faced by workers, such as the challenges they navigate while balancing work and family responsibilities.
Responsible Contribution to Local Causes
Understand the ongoing struggles faced by local grassroots movements, NGOs, and trade unions in the Global South and worldwide.
Instead of assuming needs, engage directly with community leaders and stakeholders to gain insight into their struggles and priorities.
If you want to contribute locally, meticulously select donation beneficiaries to ensure that support aligns with the needs and priorities of the affected communities.
Evaluate the and go for long-term impact of your contributions.
Involve local communities in decision-making processes regarding the allocation of resources and support.
Sustained Efforts for “Ethical” Fashion
Instead of solely focusing on short-term campaigns, commit to sustained efforts throughout the year. Move away from token gestures. Implement ethical pricing strategies that prioritize fair wages, factory safety, and improved working conditions for garment workers.
Address broader sustainability issues beyond environmental concerns, considering the social and economic impacts on workers and their communities.
Invest in programs and initiatives that support community development, education, and healthcare, contributing to the overall well-being of workers and their families.
Ensure that your efforts towards ethical fashion respond to the needs and priorities of local communities. Engage with them on that.
And another important aspect: It’s about the perspective. Don’t advertise YOUR collection, product, or service as THE solution to the systemic problems. Especially not during this time of the year.
What to expect next week?
We will share a fact-checked list of information about the Rana Plaza collapse so that you can double-check your content or copy and paste it into your communication. Plus, we will share organizations you can donate to that directly support projects in the Global South.
All the best,
Tanita & Lavinia
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🔹 Got feedback or a topic we should cover? Send us an email to thecrisps@substack.com
Disclaimer: The content and opinions presented in The Crisps newsletter are for informational purposes only and do not constitute legal, ethical, or professional advice. The Crisps does not endorse any specific brands or products mentioned in its content.
Verano, S. (2021). Addressing Cultural Shame. South of Therapy. Retrieved from https://southoftherapy.com/addressing-cultural-shame/
Johnson, K., & Alam, J. (2013). Major retailers rejected Bangladesh factory safety plan. HuffPost.