The Wool Issue

From wool types to production processes and the right communication

Welcome back to another issue of The Crisps–your newsletter on anti-greenwashing and honest fashion communication. You can support us by subscribing, liking, and sharing our posts.

Hello again! It’s been a while since our last update in December. Considering the turmoil our world is currently in, we hope you’re doing well. German winter has left its mark on us as we’ve both been sick and had to push this issue twice. The third time is the charm now.

So, apologies for the radio silence. But we’re finally back!

As the winter is coming to an end in the northern hemisphere, we’re wrapping up the cold season with this issue. One last winter issue, if you will. And it’s about one of the most cherished materials: wool.

Wool has long been marketed as nature’s perfect fiber–renewable, biodegradable, and durable. But its sustainability depends entirely on how it’s farmed, sheared, processed, and marketed. And that’s where greenwashing thrives. So let’s take a look at the ins and outs of wool production and how brands spin misleading claims.

All the best,

Tanita & Lavinia

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Wool can be derived from different animals. And while we will keep the rest of this issue focused on wool from sheep, we quickly touch on all of the different wool types here¹:

1. Wool from goats

Cashmere wool

Cashmere wool is an ultra-soft and warm fiber sourced primarily from Mongolia, China, India, and Iran. It comes from Cashmere goats, which have a dual coat consisting of a coarse outer layer and a fine and insulating undercoat. To obtain the soft fibers, the undercoat is carefully combed during the molting season. Cashmere fibers typically measure 14 to 19 microns in diameter, making them significantly finer than traditional sheep wool. The fineness gives cashmere its lightweight feel, luxurious softness, and excellent insulation properties. And making it a favorite for high-end knitwear and scarves.

Mohair wool

Mohair wool is known for its shiny texture and durability. It comes from Angora goats, which are primarily raised in Turkey, South Africa, and the United States. This kind of goat produces long, curly fibers with a natural sheen. That’s where mohair’s characteristic luster comes from. The fibers range from 25 to 45 microns. Good to know: Younger goats produce finer, softer mohair, while older goats grow stronger, coarser fibers. Because of its high elasticity and resistance to creasing, mohair is often used in luxury suits and sweaters.

2. Wool from alpacas

Alpaca wool is a hypoallergenic, soft and water-resistant fiber derived from Alpacas. The animals are native to Peru, Bolivia and Ecuador. Unlike sheep wool, alpaca fibers do not contain lanolin. That makes them suitable for individuals with wool allergies. The fibers measure between 18 to 30 microns. Huacaya alpacas produce soft and crimpy wool. Suri alpacas grow long and silky strands. Thanks to its exceptional warmth-to-weight ratio and natural resistance to pilling, alpaca wool is widely used in luxury outerwear, blankets and fine knitwear.

3. Wool from sheep

While hundreds of sheep breeds can be used for wool production, we only mention the most common ones here.

Merino wool

Merino wool is one of the finest and softest wools which primarily comes from Australia, New Zealand and Spain. Thanks to their dense and wrinkled skin they produce a high yield of wool. Their fibers typically range from 12 to 24 microns in diameter, making merino wool naturally elastic, breathable and comfortable for direct skin contact.

Side note: Merino sheep originated in Spain and only came to Australia in the 18th century. So, they are not a native breed in Australia and New Zealand.²

Shetland wool

Shetland wool originates from Shetland sheep, a hardy breed native to the Shetland Islands in Scotland. Shetland sheep thrive in cold climates. They develop a dense and insulating fleece that protects them from extreme weather. Shetland wool is slightly coarser than Merino but still fine and soft. Fiber diameters range from 20 to 30 microns. Shetland wool is best known for its durability, elasticity, and ability to hold intricate patterns, which makes it a popular choice for traditional sweaters and knitted accessories.

Corriedale wool

Corriedale wool comes from Corriedale sheep, a crossbreed of Merino and Lincoln sheep. They are primarily raised in New Zealand, Australia, and South America. The wool is medium-fine, with fiber diameters ranging from 25 to 31 microns. Because of its natural crimp and medium staple length, Corriedale fleece has excellent elasticity and resilience, making it a preferred fiber for knitting yarns, felting, and durable outerwear fabrics.

Bluefaced Leicester wool

Bluefaced Leicester wool comes from the Bluefaced Leicester sheep. The British breed is known for its distinctive blue-tinged skin beneath the fine and curly fleece. This wool is among the finest of the longwool breeds. Fibers measure 24 to 28 microns in diameter and are silky, soft, and highly lustrous. They make an excellent choice for fine knitwear and lightweight woven fabrics.

Rambouillet wool

Rambouillet wool comes from Rambouillet sheep. It’s often referred to as the French Merino with fiver diameters typically ranging from 18 to 24 microns. Even though it has been developed in France, Rambouillet sheep are now widely raised in the United States, Spain and Australia. The fleece is dense, soft and elastic. Their wool is highly valued for its durability and ability to retain warmth while remaining lightweight. You’ll find it in luxury knitwear, high-quality outerwear and base layers. Unlike traditional Merino wool, Rambouillet wool tends to have more loft and elasticity which is the reason it’s also well-suited for activewear and performance fabrics.

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It’s crucial to understand how a material is grown, produced and processed before we can talk about it–let alone advertise it–well. Here’s a quick intro to wool production:

Step 1: Sheep rearing

Sheep rearing is the backbone of wool production and the defining factor in fleece quality. From Australia’s vast commercial farms to Scotland’s rugged family-run pastures, in our industrialized world, sheep are bred, fed, and cared for with one goal: producing high-quality wool. Large-scale farms in New Zealand and Australia use rotational grazing to protect the land, while free-range systems in Iceland and Scotland allow sheep to tough it out in extreme climates. In Peru and Bolivia, sheep and alpacas are herded in high altitudes based on indigenous knowledge. Farmers play a crucial role in responsible land management, selective breeding and ethical wool production. Sheep are shorn once a year, not just for wool, but for their health so they don’t overheat. Genetics, nutrition, and grazing techniques shape the final product, influencing everything from fiber softness to environmental impact.

Step 2: Shearing

Done once a year, usually in spring, shearing prevents overheating and keeps the flock in top shape. Professional industry-shearers, especially in Australia and New Zealand, can shear up to 200 sheep a day, skillfully removing the fleece in a single piece. In Scotland and Iceland, smaller farms often take a slower, more traditional approach, using hand shears for delicate wool types. The process demands precision and care, a steady hand ensures the fleece stays intact while keeping the sheep calm and injury-free – though unfortunately, animal welfare is not a top priority in big parts of the industry. While shearing is required for sheep welfare, due to selective breeding practices that have prioritized wool production over natural adaptability, it’s a high-pressure, volume-driven industry. Shearers are often underpaid and work in extreme conditions which can lead to rough handling (where sheep are pinned down or sheared too quickly and stressful) and injuries. Some regions experiment with alternative shearing methods like biological wool harvesting where a protein treatment encourages fleece to shed naturally.

Step 3: Sorting and grading

After sheep are sheared, the next crucial step in wool production is grading and sorting. This process determines the quality and potential use of the fleece by evaluating fiber characteristics (list further down). Wool from different parts of the sheep varies in quality. The best fibers typically come from the shoulders and sides. Coarser or shorter fibers are found on the legs and belly. To maximize wool utilization, the fleece is carefully sorted into different grades before further processing​. While wool sorting is highly mechanized using automated fiber testing systems in countries such as Australia and New Zealand, traditional hand-sorting methods are still common in smaller mills in the UK and South America.

How wool is graded and sorted

1. Staple length: The length of the wool fibers affects its strength and how it will be spun into yarn. Longer fibers are preferred for worsted spinning (used in suits and fine fabrics), while shorter fibers go into woolen processing for softer, bulkier textiles like sweaters and blankets.

2. Fiber fineness: Measured in microns, finer wool (such as Merino) is softer and used for next-to-skin garments, while coarser wool is better suited for carpets and upholstery.

3. Crimp and elasticity: The natural waviness of wool fibers impacts their elasticity and resilience. More crimp means more stretch, which is ideal for soft, form-fitting textiles.

4. Color: White wool is the most valuable since it can be dyed into a wider range of colors, while naturally darker wool is often used for undyed, natural-colored textiles.

5. Contaminants: Dirt, vegetable matter and grease (lanolin) must be minimized before the wool moves on to washing and scouring​.

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Step 4: Scouring

At the scouring stage, wool is stripped of the grease (lanolin), dirt, and impurities picked up on the sheep’s back. The raw fleece is passed through a series of warm water baths filled with detergents and alkaline solutions. Some focus on removing contaminants while the final ones rinse and soften the fibers. Once washed, the wool is dried using heat, preparing it for the next steps: carding, spinning, and textile manufacturing. A well-scoured fleece means higher-quality yarn and better-performing fabrics. But the process leads to chemical-heavy wastewater which has to be treated properly. The environmental cost of industrial wool cleaning remains one of the blind spots when we speak about wool.

Step 5: Carding

Carding detangles, cleans, and aligns wool fibers and transforms raw fleece into a smooth web ready for spinning. This step is crucial in defining wool’s texture, strength, and overall performance in the final product. After scouring, wool remains clumped and uneven, so carding separates and straightens the fibers. The process runs wool through fine metal teeth on rollers, ensuring consistency and quality. Woolen carding creates soft fibers perfect for warm fabrics like tweeds, while worsted carding produces sleek fibers for durable, high-end textiles. Modern mills use automated carding machines, but artisan producers often stick to hand or drum carders for small-batch processing.

Step 6: Spinning

Now we’re getting to the yarn stage! Spinning transforms carded wool into yarn by twisting and drawing out the fibers to create a continuous strand with the desired thickness and strength. This process refines the wool’s texture, elasticity and durability and makes it ready for knitting or weaving. The twist determines the yarn’s softness, strength and drape and influences its final use such as fine suiting fabrics, cozy knitwear or sturdy upholstery.

Step 7: Dyeing and finishing

Once spun, the wool undergoes finishing and dyeing to enhance its texture, color and durability. Finishing processes include washing, stretching and setting the yarn or fabric to improve softness and elasticity. Some wools go through fulling, a controlled shrinking process that tightens fibers for a denser feel. Others are treated to resist pilling or felting. Dyeing can happen at different stages: fiber dyeing, yarn dyeing or piece dyeing (occasionally with wool-blends, but very rare). The choice of dye and finishing method affects the final look, feel and environmental impact of the wool.

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From the land required for sheep grazing to the water-intensive processing stages, the wool industry comes with its own set of environmental risks. Below, we explore the key factors associated with wool production and processing.

🔹 Land degradation and overgrazing: Sheep farming can have a devastating impact on ecosystems, particularly when overstocked. Overgrazing leads to soil erosion, desertification, and loss of biodiversity. In regions like Australia and South Africa, excessive grazing has stripped the land of its vegetation, reduced soil fertility and increased the risk of desertification​.

🔹 Water use and pollution: Processing wool is incredibly water-intensive, particularly in the scouring (washing) phase. Wool grease, lanolin, and other organic waste are removed using huge amounts of water mixed with detergents and chemicals. If not treated properly, the wastewater can pollute rivers and lakes. But also dyes and processing agents in wool treatment can introduce harmful chemicals into the environment.

🔹 Greenhouse gas emissions: Wool’s carbon footprint is substantial, primarily due to methane from sheep. They produce methane during digestion. The problem: This greenhouse gas has a global warming potential 28–34 times higher than CO₂ over 100 years​. Another emissions driver is energy-intensive processing, including wool scouring, carding, spinning and dyeing.³

Any other environmental risks come to mind? Drop them in the comments.

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When it comes to animal welfare, there’s a lot of room for improvement. Painful procedures, inadequate living conditions, and stress from shearing or transport are some of the risks sheep face. One of the most controversial practices is mulesing. During the surgical procedure, the strips of skin around a sheep’s tail are removed to prevent infection through flystrike (caused by flies laying eggs in skin folds). While intended to protect sheep from suffering, mulesing itself causes significant pain and distress, especially when it’s performed without pain relief or anesthesia. In the majority of Australia, which is the world’s largest wool-producing country, pain relief or anesthesia is not mandatory.⁴ ⁵

Calls for more humane practices have been voiced for decades. Now some brands are catching up. According to the animal welfare organization Four Paws⁶, 100 international brands have declared not to source wool from farms where mulesing is practiced. The kind of news we like to see these days!

To dive deeper into animal welfare topics, you can hop over to these two past issues:

Breaking the silence on animal welfare

Over FIVE billion animals are used for fashion each year

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The wool supply chain isn’t just about sheep and soil health. It’s also about the people behind the fiber. From underpaid shearers working long hours in physically demanding conditions to factory workers exposed to hazardous chemicals in scouring and dyeing, labor exploitation still is a hidden reality of the industry. Shearers are often paid by volume. So, the speed of shearing matters, pushing them to work with exhausting pressure. In processing facilities, workers handling chemical-heavy scouring and dyeing may face serious health risks, often without proper protective equipment. Discussions on ethical wool must include labor rights, ensuring that sustainability isn’t just about the environment–it’s about fair wages, safe conditions, and dignity for workers throughout the supply chain.⁷

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You’ve likely encountered or used wool’s reputation as a natural, renewable and biodegradable fiber before. But as you know, the reality is more nuanced. Let’s have a look at the communication risks and how to avoid greenwashing when speaking about wool.

Common greenwashing risks

🔸Vague sustainability claims: Terms like “ethical wool,” “natural,” or “sustainably sourced” sound good but mean little without clear definitions or proof.

🔸Overlooking wool’s full impact: Wool, in its unprocessed stage, biodegrades majorly without harming the soil, but that doesn’t erase concerns like methane emissions, land degradation, or chemical-heavy processing. Omitting these factors can mislead consumers.

🔸Unverified "mulesing-free" claims: Some brands claim they source non-mulesed wool but lack proper traceability. If supply chain transparency is weak, this claim can easily backfire.

🔸Using wool’s natural image as a shortcut: Just because something is of “natural origin” doesn’t mean it’s automatically not harming. Be mindful of relying on wool’s feel-good perception without addressing its complexities.

Best practices for transparent communication

🔸 Use reliable third-party certifications: Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) and ZQ Merino verify animal welfare and environmental standards, adding credibility to your claims.⁸

🔸 Provide context and data: Instead of broad claims, share measurable insights on emissions, land use, or water treatment in your wool supply chain.

🔸 Define your terminology: If you use terms like “responsibly sourced,” clarify what that means in your sourcing and production process and back it up.

🔸 Acknowledge both the benefits and challenges: Consumers and industry insiders appreciate honesty. If your wool has a lower carbon impact or comes from regenerative farms, explain how. If there’s still room for improvement, say so.

Sustainability claims are under increasing pressure and getting ahead of potential greenwashing risks is crucial. However, a well-informed, transparent approach helps build trust and strengthens your brand’s credibility. So please don’t shy away from it.

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Disclaimer: The content and opinions presented in The Crisps newsletter are for informational purposes only and do not constitute legal, ethical, or professional advice. The Crisps does not endorse any specific brands or products mentioned in its content.

1. Ozek, H. Z. (2024). Wool production steps and global trade with recent statistics. In The Wool Handbook (pp. 25-74). Woodhead Publishing.

2. Wikipedia. (n.d.). Merino. Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merino

3. Apparel Insider. (2024). Natural fibres insight. Retrieved from https://apparelinsider.com/natural-fibres-insight/

4. Fisher, A. D., & Roadknight, N. (2024). Welfare of Sheep. In Sheep Veterinary Practice (pp. 19-38). CRC Press.

5. Yan, G., Schlink, A. C., Liu, S., Greeff, J. C., Flematti, G. R., & Martin, G. B. (2024). Investigating the role of blow fly olfaction in flystrike in sheep. Animal Production Science, 64(1).

6. Vier Pfoten. (2025). Absichtserklärung gegen Lämmerverstümmelung (Mulesing). Retrieved from https://www.vier-pfoten.de/kampagnen-themen/themen/mode-und-tierschutz/wearitkind/absichtserklaerung-gegen-laemmerverstuemmelung-mulesing

7. Wool Facts. (n.d.). Human rights and the wool industry. Retrieved from https://www.woolfacts.com/human-rights-and-the-wool-industry/

8. Certification Gaps: While certifications like Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) or ZQ Merino aim to ensure humane shearing, most brands do not adhere to these standards, and enforcement of standards can be inconsistent.