Unpacking misleading comms around packaging

From polybags to "biodegradable" packaging and the Forest Stewardship Council certification a.o.

Welcome to another issue of The Crisps – your newsletter on anti-greenwashing and honest fashion communication. You can support us by subscribing to a free or pro subscription, liking, sharing, or commenting on our posts.

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In today’s fashion industry, packaging plays a vital role. From ensuring hygiene standards to maintaining structural integrity, packaging helps protect both the quality of garments and the customer experience. However, packaging is coming under increased scrutiny for the resources it uses and the waste it creates. Finding an alternative that is both better for the environment and durable is a complex challenge. Its communication is in parts an even bigger one.

As the demand for sustainable practices in packaging grows, so does the risk of greenwashing. Common phrases like "biodegradable" or "made from recycled materials" often lack transparency and might portray a product as less impactful than it truly is. For example, some "biodegradable" packaging may only break down under specific industrial conditions that the average consumer can’t access. Similarly, claims about recycled content may apply to only a small percentage of the material used, while the rest consists of virgin resources.

So, in this issue of The Crisps, we dive into the different types of packaging used in fashion, the multifaceted challenges associated with them, and how brands can communicate their packaging decisions without greenwashing.

What to expect in today’s pro section:

• The problem with polybags

• Greenwashing pitfalls for packaging

• Further reading and sources

All the best,

Tanita & Lavinia

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Upcoming EU regulations on packaging

Upcoming EU regulations are set to transform the packaging landscape. By the end of 2024, extended producer responsibility (EPR) schemes will make companies accountable for their packaging waste. Specific targets for recycled content are also in place—by 2030, PET bottles must contain 30% recycled content, increasing to 50% by 2040. All packaging must be designed to be recyclable by 2030, pushing brands toward circular economy practices. Harmonized environmental labeling will provide consumers with clear, standardized information about packaging sustainability that will hopefully help to build trust and reduce confusion.¹

Industry standards to know:

• ISO 14021: This standard addresses self-declared environmental claims and encourages transparency in the use of terms like "recyclable" or "biodegradable."

• Global Packaging Standards: Various organizations provide guidelines to improve sustainability in packaging, including the Sustainable Packaging Coalition and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, which advocate for circular economy principles.

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The fashion industry relies on a variety of packaging materials. Each comes with different environmental impacts. Let’s look at the most common types and alternatives.

1. Paper-based packaging

🔹 Cardboard boxes are widely used for e-commerce, shipping and product storage.

🔹 Tissue and kraft paper is commonly used for wrapping items. While it protects the purchase, it is often used to add a “luxurious” experience.

🔹 Paper tape is used as an alternative to plastic tape.

Paper-based packaging, while renewable, is not always durable enough to protect products in transit. Additionally, excessive use of paper packaging contributes to deforestation if materials aren't sourced responsibly.

2. Plastic packaging

🔹 Polybags from low-density polyethylene (LDPE), are lightweight, transparent plastic bags. They are widely used to protect clothing during shipping and storage, especially in humid environments where they prevent damage from moisture and dirt. While convenient and protective, polybags are primarily single-use.

🔹 “Biodegradable” and “compostable” plastics are some of the new alternatives to traditional polybags. They are majorly made from renewable resources such as cornstarch or cassava and degrade under certain conditions. However, these materials often require industrial composting facilities, which aren’t accessible everywhere.

🔹 Recycled plastics, polyethylene, (rPET) is increasingly used in fashion packaging, particularly in polybags, as it provides durability while reducing the demand for virgin plastic. The use of rPET aligns with EU regulations requiring higher recycled content in packaging, but sourcing reliable post-consumer plastic remains a challenge.

Despite the growing use of recycled plastics, plastics of any kind face issues with recyclability, often contaminating recycling streams if mixed with non-recyclables or inadequately labeled.

3. Alternatives

🔹 Plant-based packaging (made from algae, mushrooms and seaweed) is an alternative brands experiment with. This kind of packaging is said to derive from natural, fast-growing resources. They have the potential to biodegrade naturally without polluting ecosystems.

🔹 Mushroom-based packaging is majorly made from mycelium (the root structure of mushrooms) and is a promising alternative for protective packaging. It decomposes easily, providing nutrients to the soil rather than lasting indefinitely in landfills.

🔹 Bioplastics and bio-based films are made from natural polymers derived from plants or waste materials (for example agricultural by-products). These can be engineered to mimic the properties of conventional plastic but with a lower carbon footprint and sometimes quicker decomposition.

🔹 Recycled textile waste is a new way to create packaging for garments. This approach addresses both textile waste and packaging needs, although scalability and durability are current limitations.²

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FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) and PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification) are two globally recognized chain-of-custody forest-derived product certification systems that aim to ensure responsible forest management. Brands often use FSC or PEFC to convey responsible packaging decisions. However, the certification schemes have been heavily criticized by NGOs and investigative journalists.³ Here we take a look at the major factors:

1. Both certifications allow for a mix of certified and non-certified materials in products. This can lead to ambiguity about the true sustainability of a product, as consumers might not be aware that their “eco-friendly” paper might contain a percentage of wood from non-sustainable sources.

2. While both FSC and PEFC aim to ensure responsible sourcing, the certification processes can be complex and costly. The certifications are often criticized for their inaccessibility for smaller producers or organizations with limited resources.

3. The standards and enforcement mechanisms may vary significantly between countries, allowing for practices that might not align with the spirit of sustainable forestry in certain regions.

4. In the past, FSC and PEFC-certified products have been linked to deforestation (particularly in regions where logging practices are not adequately monitored). This raised concerns about the actual impact of certifications on global deforestation rates.⁴

5. Both organizations have faced criticism regarding their frameworks for protecting indigenous land rights. Certification practices have sometimes prioritized commercial interests over local communities’ rights, leading to conflict and environmental degradation.⁵

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Welcome to our pro section!

In this issue’s pro section we dive into the communication around packaging and the problem with polybags:

• The problem with polybags

• Greenwashing pitfalls for packaging

• Further reading and sources

Polybags are commonly used in the fashion sector for various purposes. They protect clothing from moisture and dirt, especially during shipping and storage in retail environments. They make handling in warehouses and retail spaces easier, streamline operations and reduce the likelihood of damage during stocking.

However:

1. Polybags are predominantly made from low-density polyethylene (LDPE), a type of single-use plastic that contributes significantly to plastic pollution.⁶