Welcome to another issue of The Crisps – your newsletter on anti-greenwashing and honest fashion communication. In case, you’re not subscribed yet. Let us help you with that:
Last week, Earth Day was celebrated. Like every year the event raises awareness of the need for environmental protection. And as every year, brands misuse the day to promote themselves, boost profits, and enhance their reputation.
Earth Day (just like any other anniversary or commemoration) is not a time to market materials, production processes, or “better” working conditions. Earth Day should be a time for genuine reflection and action, honoring the ones who defend it such as peasant movements and grassroots labor and environmental rights activists.
While some brands may seem to do a good job with their Earth Day communication at first glance, there is barely a content piece that doesn’t end with switching the focus back on the brand – often phrased like this:
“That’s why we at XYZ help/change/save/make better.”
Now, this type of communication is not just used on Earth Day. It is often the backbone of sustainability communication and fundraising campaigns. We call the phenomenon behind this type of thinking and communication business saviorism derived from the term often used in academics “white savior industrial complex”.1
Let’s look at it in more detail and equip you with the knowledge to identify and address harmful patterns of Business Saviorism in fashion marketing strategies.
What is “business saviorism”?
The term describes the tendency of corporations and industries to position themselves as heroes or saviors in addressing societal and environmental challenges. The “saviors” (whether it’s a brand, NGO or person) often come from privileged backgrounds and are portrayed as essential for solving complex issues. The “rescued” often come from marginalized communities, struggling businesses (or in case of Earth Day might be the planet itself).2
This mentality can manifest in various forms within the business world and most of us working in sustainability are guilty of it:
White Saviorism: Linked to racial dynamics, it involves white individuals or organizations positioning themselves as saviors to communities of color, often perpetuating stereotypes and power imbalances.
Impact Organizations: Social impact organizations may unintentionally adopt a savior mentality when offering services to communities, potentially undermining the agency and dignity of those they aim to help.
Narrative Framing: The storytelling around business initiatives can sometimes fall into savior narratives, overshadowing the collaboration and empowerment needed for sustainable change.
Sustainability Savior Complex: Organizations adopt a self-righteous attitude towards sustainability efforts, often focusing on superficial actions that serve to enhance their reputation rather than making meaningful systemic changes.
But how exactly does it show in the fashion industry?
An example could be: A company launches a marketing campaign centered around a social cause. The campaign shows images of children from an African country that are portrayed as poor and in need. The campaign calls for purchasing a design which will contribute to make the live of the portrayed kids better. But instead of addressing the issue at hand, the campaign uses a stereotypical narrative to sell products and boost sales.
Another example could be: A brand promotes a collection that uses recycled polyester and frames it as such: “Our collection uses recycled materials and therefore reduces waste helping to solve fashion’s waste crisis”. However, in this case, the brand only takes to surface-level sustainability efforts but doesn’t do anything to tackle the systemic issue lying underneath like overproduction. This approach can create a false sense of accomplishment and divert attention from systemic issues.
While researching for this issue, we stumbled upon a great newsletter issue by Anne Miltenburg that we strongly encourage you to read. She touches on a topic that you’ve seen on TV, billboards and might even have encountered at the checkout display of your local shop.
NGOs (and businesses have started copying it from NGOs) often use white saviorism in their fundraising campaigns, depicting (for example) Africans as poor and in need to attract Western donors. Miltenburg writes: “In the West, we've managed to compress the story of a continent with 54 countries with incredible diversity in religion, ethnicities, landscapes, flora, fauna, economic fortunes, and culture into one narrative: that it is poor and dependent on aid”.
She goes on to describe how this reinforcement of unfair stereotypes hurts the image of African people, might further limit economic opportunities and contribute to a toxic political narrative in the West.
While seemingly well-intentioned, these actions can do more harm than good. And especially Western people and businesses should be aware of their role and participation in enforcing stereotypes.
So what can we as individuals and professionals in our industry do to not enforce stereotypes? In our next issue, we show you how you and businesses can be better accomplices for social and environmental justice without diverting to savior complexes.
Best,
Tanita & Lavinia
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Disclaimer: The content and opinions presented in The Crisps newsletter are for informational purposes only and do not constitute legal, ethical, or professional advice. The Crisps does not endorse any specific brands or products mentioned in its content.
Cole, T. (2012). The white-savior industrial complex. The Atlantic, 21(1).
Ketron, S., & Naletelich, K. (2019). Victim or beggar? Anthropomorphic messengers and the savior effect in consumer sustainability behavior. Journal of Business Research, 96, 73-84.