Where fossil fuels are hiding in the fashion industry

Lululemon greenwashing accusation and the role fossil fuels are playing in fashion.

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Feb 16, 2024

Welcome to The Crisps–your weekly newsletter on anti-greenwashing and honest fashion communication. In this issue, let’s get into what role fossil fuels play in the fashion sector and why Lululemon is widely facing greenwashing criticism – again.

If you’ve been scrolling through LinkedIn, Business of Fashion or any other fashion business platform this week, you’ve stumbled upon the news: Lululemon is currently facing harsh criticism for greenwashing. Environmental group Stand.earth has filed a complaint at Canada’s competition watchdog to investigate whether Lululemon’s 2020 “Be Planet” campaign misled consumers.

For many consumers, Lululemon seems like the “green” activewear choice. While their products are made almost entirely from fossil fuel-based fibers, their material choice is not the only aspect the brand is criticized for.

The complaint by Stand.earth focuses on the fact that Lululemon claims “Our products and actions avoid environmental harm and contribute to restoring a healthy planet”1 while its Scope 3 greenhouse gas emissions (where about 90 % of a company’s impact lies2) continuously increase. According to Lululemon’s Impact Report, their Scope 3 emissions rose by 129% from 2018 to 2022. This is also due to its fossil fuel-powered supply chain.

Image Source: Lululemon Impact Report 2022

Btw, the complaint follows up on a petition that was initiated by Stand.earth and Actions Speak Louder. Together with yoga teachers and students, they call for Lululemon to convert their supply chain to 100% renewable energy. We will keep you updated on all of it!

The complaint shows how important it is to consider where fossil fuels are used in your supply chain, which negative impacts they create, and if you can market your product or your company as a “more sustainable” option. So let’s look at the impact fossil fuels have and where they are involved in the fashion sector – they might be hiding where you don’t expect them.

A short lexicon around fossil fuel fashion

Synthetics, fossil fuel-based fibers, plastics – all the same? To make sure we’re all on the same page, we’re starting this issue with a quick definition of the most important terms to know in the discussion around fossil fuels and fashion.

Fossil Fuels

Definition: Non-renewable energy sources derived from ancient organic matter, such as coal, oil, and natural gas. In 2022, over 80% of primary energy consumption in the world and over 60% of its electricity was from fossil fuels.3 The large-scale burning of fossil fuels causes serious environmental damage. Over 70% of the greenhouse gas emissions due to human activity in 2022 was CO2 from burning them. The fashion industry also relies on fossil fuels which are used to produce synthetic fibers, process textiles, and as a source of energy.

Critical View: Fashion’s heavy reliance on fossil fuels contributes significantly to environmental degradation, greenhouse gas emissions, and the climate crises.

Synthetic Textile Fibers

Definition: Synthetic textile fibers are man-made fibers such as polyester, nylon, and elastane. They are created through chemical processes that are often derived from fossil fuels.4 Since 1995, synthetic fibers have dominated the textile market overtaking cotton as the most popular fiber type. By 2020 synthetic fiber accounted for nearly 65% of worldwide output.5

Critical View: While synthetic fibers offer versatility and affordability, their production and use contribute to pollution, microplastic contamination, and resource depletion. The fashion industry has to explore more options to reduce its environmental impact and reliance on finite resources such as fibers based on fossil fuels.

Synthetic Textile Materials

Definition: Synthetic materials are made from synthetic fibers which are derived from fossil fuels. They are used to make clothing, accessories and footwear and can (but don’t have to) mimic natural materials.6 Examples include faux leather or synthetic suede.

Critical View: The use of synthetic materials is a major part of fashion’s negative environmental impact. Issues such as non-biodegradability and toxic chemical releases during production and end-of-life highlight the need for alternative materials that prioritize both performance and sustainability.

Plastic

Definition: Derived from fossil fuels through processes like polymerization7, plastic is a versatile, synthetic material used in a wide range of applications in all industries. In fashion, it is used for packaging, textile fibers such as polyester, and more.8

Critical View: Fashion's reliance on plastic contributes to the global plastic crisis, leading to environmental pollution. The industry needs to adopt alternatives and innovative solutions to reduce plastic consumption, phase out fossil fuel-based materials, and handle what already exists.

Bio-Based Synthetics

Definition: Synthetic materials are derived from “renewable” resources, like plants or agricultural byproducts. They are attempting to offer an alternative to fossil fuel-based synthetics but have not scaled yet.9

Critical View: While bio-based synthetics offer a potential alternative there are issues such as land use, water consumption, and chemical inputs in cultivation that have to be talked about as well. A comprehensive life cycle analysis is crucial to evaluate the true sustainability of these materials.

Circular Synthetics

Definition: Circular synthetics describe materials that, in theory, can be kept in a closed-loop system and used again and again. Circular synthetics aim to reduce the environmental impact of synthetic fibers by minimizing waste and resource consumption.

Critical View: While “circular synthetics” might help to mitigate the impact of synthetic materials in the future, systems are not in place yet to make it a reality. Clothing is (not yet) effectively collected, textile-to-textile recycling is still at only 1% and most of recycled synthetics are made from plastic bottles – which is highly criticized as the material is taken out of a system that works better than textile recycling.10 Plus, circularity is a system, not a product or material. Therefore, we deny the term used and consider it greenwashing.

Fossil Fuel-Free Fashion

Definition: It describes a movement within the fashion industry aiming to eliminate the use of fossil fuels in production processes. This involves a shift towards renewable alternatives, emphasizing improved practices and materials to reduce environmental impact.

Critical View: Achieving fossil fuel-free fashion requires systemic changes across the entire supply chain. You may have heard the phrase “phasing out fossil fuels” which we will get into more in our pro issue next week. In the discussion around fossil fuel-free fashion, it is essential to avoid merely shifting the burden to alternative materials because they have environmental challenges as well. It’s important to look at the challenges holistically and address the broader socio-ecological concerns.

What do you think is the problem: Plastic? Or how we handle it?

A friend of ours stumbled over this post on LinkedIn recently and shared it with us. So we thought this would be a great way to unravel how the narrative around fossil fuel-based fibers in textiles should or should not be handled.

Image Source: LinkedIn Markus Steilemann

It’s not the first time we’ve come across this kind of narrative. In fact, it’s widely used in fashion. We are told that synthetic materials based on crude oil like virgin polyester, acrylic (and other plastics) are not the problem. The problem would rather be HOW WE HANDLE them.

Well, we believe there is more to it.

From raw material extraction to end-of-life processes, fashion is connected to fossil fuels across its entire lifecycle. Let’s roughly go through the lifecycle and the impacts of fossil fuels and fossil fuel-fibers:

Fiber production: Processes like polymerization which is used to produce synthetic fibers such as polyester and nylon contribute to environmental degradation, including air and water pollution. The production of fossil fuel-based fibers is pretty energy-intensive and often relies on – you can guess it – fossil fuels. This exacerbates the industry's carbon footprint and dependence on non-renewable resources.11

Dyes and finishes: Fossil fuels extend beyond fibers and materials, encompassing various process chemicals integral to textile manufacturing. The production of dyes and auxiliaries, essential for creating vibrant colors and textures, often relies on fossil fuel-derived raw materials. Plus, the manufacturing and processing of synthetic AND natural fabrics involves the use of various chemicals, some of which may have adverse health effects on workers and nearby communities.

Logistics: Raw materials, components, and finished garments are transported from A to Z with transportation largely relying on fossil fuels.

In Use: Once fossil fuel-based pieces have entered wardrobes around the world they are continuously washed, shedding nano and microfibers into waterways. That causes immeasurable damage to marine life and vital ecosystems. It cannot easily be traced. Based on the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) survey, the number one way fiber fragments find their way into the environment is due to garments made from synthetic fibers (34.8%).12 Most of the fiber fragments are commonly discharged into the environment after domestic washing.13

Recycling: Here we agree with the mentioned LinkedIn post to some extent. How we handle plastics (or synthetic materials in fashion) throughout their life cycle influences their impact on the environment. Currently, synthetic materials are not handled well at the end of life – or at least not on scale. There are exciting initiatives out there but it will take a lot more time (and money) until they are widely used across the industry and can create a positive impact. On that note another important aspect: Recycling will NOT be the solution to our overconsumption problem!

After Use: Improper disposal and management of synthetic textile waste can lead to social problems, especially in communities near landfills or waste disposal sites. These communities may be disproportionately affected by the negative consequences of textile waste. Plus, many synthetic fibers, such as polyester and nylon, are not biodegradable. When disposed of in landfills, they can persist for long periods, contributing to heavy environmental pollution.

If you look at the following numbers, we’re sure you will agree, that we have to reduce the use of synthetics in fashion AND find better ways to handle them.

We’d love to hear your perspective on this! Just hit reply to this email or leave a comment below.

The status of fossil fuel-based fibers in fashion

Since 1995, synthetic fibers have dominated the textile market, overtaking cotton as the most popular fiber type, with synthetic fiber alone accounting for nearly 65% of the worldwide output by 2020.14
Fiber production nowadays is dominated by synthetic fibers (~ 69%) with the rest shared between natural fibers and blends of natural and synthetic fibers.15
It is estimated that around 98% of all future fibers will be synthetic, 95% of which is expected to be polyester.16 That is f***ing scary!
Geographically, China (66%) and India (8%) are the largest producers of synthetic fibers. Taiwan and the United States are ranked third and fourth, with each accounting for around 4% of worldwide synthetic fiber production. Aside from that, various manufacturing plants are based in Oceania, the Middle East, and Africa.17
The global fiber production reached 111 million metric tons in 2019, which has doubled in the last 20 years, with pre-COVID-19 results indicating potential growth to 146 million metric tons by 2030.18
Most fossil-fuel fibers are non-biodegradable. They can stay in the environment for many years.

We have so much more to share on this topic! Next week, we will dive into bio-based synthetics, the “fair phase-out of fossil fuels” and some greenwashing examples surrounding fossil fuel-based fibers.

Best,

Tanita & Lavinia

Lululemon. (2023). Sustainability. Retrieved from https://www.lululemon.de/en-de/c/community/about-us/our-sustainability

Quantis (2018). MEASURING FASHION 2018. Environmental Impact of the Global Apparel and Footwear Industries Study.

Ritchie, Hannah; Roser, Max (2020). "Energy". Our World in Data.

Wikipedia. (n.d.). Synthetic fiber. Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_fiber

Worley, D. (2020). Textile exchange’s 2020 preferred fiber and materials market report (PFMR). Retrieved from https://textileexchange.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/News-Release-Textile-Exchange-Releases-2020-Preferred-Fiber-and-Materials-Market-Report.pdf

Simple English Wikipedia. (n.d.). Synthetic material. Retrieved from https://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_material

Polymerization is energy-intensive in synthetic material production due to the need for energy to form chemical bonds, manage heat generated during the exothermic reactions, and handle high pressures. Additionally, the scale of industrial production, use of catalysts, and post-polymerization processes contribute to the overall energy demand in creating polymers.

Simple English Wikipedia. (n.d.). Plastic. Retrieved from https://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastic

Shirvanimoghaddam, K., Motamed, B., Ramakrishna, S., Naebe, M. (2020). Death by waste: fashion and textile circular economy case. Sci Total Environ, 718, 137317. doi: 10.1016/j.scitotenv.2020.137317

Morlet A, Opsomer R, Herrmann S, Balmond L, Gillet C, Fuchs L (2017) A new textiles economy: redesigning fashion’s future. Ellen MacArthur Foundation Retrieved from . https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/assets/downloads/publications/A-New-Textiles-Economy_Full-Report.pdf

Young S (2019) The real cost of your clothes: these are the fabrics with the best and worst environmental impact. Independent. Retrieved from https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/fabrics-environment-fast-fashion-eco-friendly-pollution-waste-polyester-cotton-fur-recycle-a8963921.html

Periyasamy, A. P., & Tehrani-Bagha, A. (2022). A review on microplastic emission from textile materials and its reduction techniques. Polymer Degradation and Stability, 199, 109901.

Acharya, S., Rumi, S. S., Hu, Y., & Abidi, N. (2021). Microfibers from synthetic textiles as a major source of microplastics in the environment: A review. Textile Research Journal, 91(17-18), 2136-2156.

Global fiber production with synthetic fibers taking up at most 75% of which close to 55% is polyester in 2020 (Original Source: OrbiChem). We were not able to access the original source, but we found the data via Chen, X., Memon, H. A., Wang, Y., Marriam, I., & Tebyetekerwa, M. (2021). Circular Economy and sustainability of the clothing and textile Industry. Materials Circular Economy, 3, 1-9.

Qin Y (2014) Global fibres overview, synthetic fibres raw materials committee meeting at apic, pattaya, 16 May 2014. Retrieved from http://www.orbichem.com/userfiles/APIC%202014/APIC2014_Yang_Qin.pdf

Henry, B., & Klepp, I. G. (2018). Microplastic pollution from textiles: A literature review.

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