Second-hand clothing: Separating fact from fiction

The positive and negative impact of second-hand clothing plus questions to prep before you communicate your second-hand offering

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Sep 03, 2023

Welcome to a new issue of The Crisps–your weekly newsletter on anti-greenwashing and honest fashion communication. With this issue, we dive into second-hand clothing and will most likely not only make fans.

In light of growing frustration about the slow progress of actual change in the industry, one thing everyone seems sure about is the positive effect of second-hand clothing in consumer behavior. Because that’s how consumers can directly contribute to changing our environment for the better, right? As with all other topics in “sustainable” fashion–it’s not that simple. Let us explain.

From a customer perspective, participating in the pre-loved market has offered a way to earn cash back, and reduce the environmental footprint by giving garments an “extra” life. While we are hoping to save clothing from landfills, we are encouraged to keep on shopping, filling our closets to the absolute maximum.

From a business perspective, the second-hand clothing industry is estimated to be worth USD 84 billion by 2030–that's twice the amount the fast fashion market is expected to be worth by then.1 So it should come as no surprise that businesses are trying to capitalize on this market by opening second-hand marketplaces and further greening their communication.

In this issue, we share the most important facts and challenges as well as a set of questions that you should have prepped before building sustainability communication around second-hand clothing and resale platforms.

Image: Twitter

The most important facts about the second-hand and reuse market

According to a life-cycle assessment (LCA) by the European textile reuse and recycling industry, reusing textiles accounts for significant CO2 and water savings compared to producing new clothing: “The environmental impact of reusing textiles is 70 times lower, even when accounting for global exports for reuse including transport emissions.”2
62% of used clothing and textiles end up in household waste meaning valuable textiles are likely to be incinerated or landfilled.3
At the end of the linear textile chain, around 1 million tons of used textiles are collected each year in Germany. In the EU as a whole, it is estimated that around 5.8 million tons are disposed of by private households each year. This corresponds to a disposal quantity of 11 kg per European* per year.4
55% of collected textiles (excluding shoes) are suitable for reuse and are traded globally as second-hand clothing. All other items that are no longer suitable for reuse are recycled wherever possible. Only 1% is recycled fiber-to-fiber worldwide.5

This post is public, so feel free to share those facts with your industry friends and colleagues.

Buying second-hand clothing has never been easier or more common. Depop, Vinted, eBay – you name it. Numerous on- and offline shops have become popular for providing users with an enjoyable experience of buying and selling secondhand goods. But shopping and buying second-hand doesn’t just come with positive aspects. Let’s learn how to discern the re-use of clothes from the clever marketing tactics of "vintagewash" and “thriftwash”:

Second-hand shopping doesn’t change overconsumption: While second-hand stores and platforms help to extend the life of products, they don’t help tackle overconsumption. Instead of reducing overall consumption, we are just promoting shopping on other platforms – with a supposedly better conscience.
Low-quality pieces don’t get a second life: Second-hand markets are flooded with low-durability fashion that in a lot of cases can’t be reused or repaired because of its poor quality. Ultimately those pieces end up as waste.
Second-hand clothing doesn’t reduce production volumes: The introduction of resale and rental services generates another profit stream for brands and retailers by creating an opportunity to buy back old inventory. All of this happens while continuing to generate the same number of new styles they always have. The second-hand market is an easy way to get involved in “greener” business practices while they can stick to doing business as usual.

Are your products "circular"?

Tanita Hecking and Lavinia Muth

August 4, 2023

Welcome to another edition of our anti-greenwashing newsletter The Crisps where we dive into the complexity of the fashion industry and expose the truth behind “sustainability” claims. Don’t miss out on our future analysis and briefs.

Read full story

Answer these questions before you communicate the rollout of a resale platform

Are we really reducing our environmental impact when we buy second-hand if the clothing we purchase has a short lifespan? → This question delves into the longevity and durability of the second-hand items you're selling. It's essential to assess whether the items you're reselling are built to last or if they are prone to rapid wear and tear, which can negate the environmental benefits.
What measures are we taking to ensure the quality and longevity of the second-hand clothing we sell? → This question addresses the steps your company is taking to extend the lifespan of reused clothing, such as quality control, repairs, or refurbishment.
Do we provide information about the estimated lifespan of the clothing items on our resale platform? → Transparency is key. Customers should have access to information about the expected lifespan of items they purchase, enabling them to make informed choices.
How do we educate our customers about the importance of proper care and maintenance for second-hand clothing to maximize its lifespan? → Educating customers about the maintenance and care of their purchases can contribute to longer-lasting clothing and reduced waste.
How do we handle clothing items that are no longer suitable for resale due to wear and tear? → Addressing the disposal of unsellable items is crucial. Consider options like recycling, upcycling, or responsible disposal to minimize environmental impact.
Do we have a clear and transparent policy on our website regarding our commitment to sustainability and the steps we take to reduce the environmental impact? → Transparency in your company's sustainability efforts can build trust with customers who are increasingly conscious of greenwashing.
Are we open to customer feedback and willing to make improvements based on their suggestions regarding sustainability and environmental impact? → Engaging with customer feedback and continuously improving your practices demonstrates a genuine commitment to sustainability.
Are we regularly reviewing and updating our sustainability goals and practices to stay aligned with evolving industry standards and promising solutions? → Staying current with sustainability trends and standards is essential for maintaining authenticity in your green initiatives.

If you have a multi-brand store or platform, add these questions:

Are we actively working to source second-hand clothing from brands that prioritize durability and sustainability in their original products? → Collaborating with brands that have a sustainability focus in their production processes can ensure that the clothing you resell aligns with your environmental goals.
What steps have we taken to verify the sustainability claims of the brands or suppliers from which we source second-hand clothing? → It's important to verify that the brands or suppliers you work with uphold sustainable practices, as this directly impacts the environmental impact of the resale items.

Next week, we will get into why Uganda is banning second-hand imports, explain the problem of “waste colonialism” and share further tips on how to make your second-hand communication greenwashing proof.

All the best,

Tanita & Lavinia

Bae, J. W. (2021). thredUp, the one billion two hundred fifty million dollar value treasure box has come, thredUp, 2021 Resale Report. The JoongAng Economy, 22.

EuRIC (2023). Recycling: Bridging circular economy & climate policy. PRESS RELEASE Clothing reuse has a 70 times lower environmental impact reveals new study. https://euric.org/resource-hub/press-releases-statements/press-release-clothing-reuse-has-a-70-times-lower-environmental-impact-reveals-new-study (accessed online 28.08.2023)

Deutsche Kleiderstiftung (2023). SECOND HAND – SECOND THOUGHTS? Von Strukturen, Prozessen und Akteuren im globalen Alttextilhandel. https://www.kleiderstiftung.de/fileadmin/user_upload/Downloads/_FW_Report_DKS_web.pdf (accessed online 28.08.2023)

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